Where I rest my head: Sur de America

As I prepare to depart South America after 3+ months, I can't help but feel bittersweet that the adventure is coming to an end. However, I am constantly reflecting on the amazing experiences, languages heard & learned, sights seen and friendships formed. Although, I've never been a complete homebody, one of the most challenging aspects of my trip has certainly been not having a home per say...but rather the clothes/things on my back (quite literally) and the excitement of finding home in the jungle, beach, mountains, desert, farm and city. It's also been some of the best parts of the trip as there has been such a variety of places I've stayed and the people, scenery and adventures at these places are what I will remember most and what has made each place feel like home if only for a few hours. Thus, a brief reflection on the final month of travel and "where I rest my head"....
note: some of the images are taken from the internet

Peru
Lima: Elio's apartment
Graciously, a friend of a friend let Sabrina and I crash at his place the night before we departed for Cusco. Located in the posh area of Miraflores, it was amazing to have our own apartment to call home for 24 hours.

Cusco: Loki Hostel, 2 nights before and after the Inca Trail Trek

Great staff, but more ideal for the traveler who wants to party until all hours of the night! The restaurant and bar on site and volunteer opportunities in the community are definitely highlights.

Inca Trail: Tent

 

Sleeping bags and camping tents were our home for 3 nights along the Inca Trail. Not ideal during a thunderstorm, but certainly an adventure!




Aguascalientes: Hotel Presidente
This simple hotel proved to be heaven after our 4-day Machu Picchu trek. Hot showers and a full breakfast were a plus!

  

Puno: Camino Real Hotel

Another simple hotel booked through our tour company, this was conveniently located to the main pedestrian street of Puno where the shops and restaurants were concentrated.










Amantani: Lucy's house
On the island of Amantani in the middle of Lake Titicaca, Sabrina and I huddled for warmth under massive blankets in the spare bedroom of our host, Lucy. A true Peru experience.

Brazil
Rio de Janeiro: Atlantis Copacabana Hotel
In Rio, I stayed with Erika and Ashley at this centrally located hotel steps from the beach and on the border of Ipanema and Copacabana. Although the staff wasn't the most helpful, the hotel was more than adequate and a treat for me, the backpacker!

Sao Paulo: I camped out for the night in my friend Paul's amazing apartment in the Campo Bello neighborhood. Such a treat and awesome to have a local host for the weekend. Too bad I didn't get any pictures!

Manaus: Gol Backpackers

This quaint hostel was an ideal location just outside the main square of Manaus and perfect spot for getting some rest before my tour in the Amazon.






Amazon: For two nights, I slept in one of the huts on the lodge property. My favorite part was the oversize hammock in the back, perfect for a siesta!

On the last night in the jungle, we camped outside in hammocks hung across a shelter, a little scary, but totally worth it.













Bolivia
La Paz: Hostal Estrella Andina

This was probably one of my favorite parts of my 24 hours in La Paz. Although I wasn't a huge fan of the city, this hostal was perfection. My new friend Tonya and I had an amazing private room and bathroom with the most comfortable beds I've experienced on the road.









Overnight bus to Uyuni

Following a packed 24 hours in La Paz, we boarded our 10-hour Todo Turismo bus for Uyuni to begin the Salar de Uyuni tour the following day. The bus company is new in Bolivia and is in answer to the terrible bus conditions that once existed, it's comparable to other coach bus companies in South America and was completely comfortable for the overnight ride....driving through death road on the other hand, not quite as comfortable...



Salar de Uyuni 3-day tour: Many people complain about the shelter conditions during the 3-day, 2-night tour of the Salar de Uyuni, but I found our company, Red Planet, to provide us with totally adequate accomodations, in fact more than comfortable.

Night 1

Night 2

Chile
San Pedro de Atacama: Backpackers Hostel
The Backpackers hostel just outside San Pedro's main town square was super chill and a great atmosphere for our 2 nights we stayed. Complete with a fire pit and hammocks for relaxing, the only downside was the cold showers and lack of water late at night.

Overnight bus to La Serena: we treated ourselves to Cama for the 16 hour ride, sooo comfortable!

La Serena: Hostal El Arbol
One of my favorite places of the whole trip. We only found and booked it the night before and it turned out to be a fabulous little B&B run by the nicest Chilean mother and her daughters. All the travelers were super nice and the rooms and beds were really comfortable, we contemplated staying longer as many of the others had...

Overnight bus to Santiago: Since the ride was only 6-7 hours, we took semi-cama (aka not a full recline seat) so it wasn't quite as comfortable, but totally doable for the quick overnight trip

Catemu: Eka Chakra Farm

During my stay at the Hare Krishna farm, Eka Chakra I was put up in a super comfortable room in one of the guest huts. Aside from the near freezing temperatures at night, it was super comfortable and very tranquilo

Santiago: Hostal Luna Calypso
For our first night back in Santiago, we stayed at this quaint hostal with a super-friendly staff. Located in the Providencia neighborhood, it was a great location to get situated for the weekend adventure with my friend Melanie.

Following our night in the hostel, we moved in to a friend's apartment in the Vitacura neighborhood for the weekend. The view from Andres' balcony was breathtaking and it was so nice to have an awesome local host in the city.

views of the city from Vitacura

For my final week in Santiago, I was taking additional classes at Ecela, so I moved back in with my host family that I had stayed with in February. It was nice to be back to a place I felt like I knew and spend my final days in a home. I am also pleased to announce that I had my first dream in "Spanglish" here during this week, certainly a monumental occasion to end the journey!

Stepping back in time in Puno

Following the adventure to Machu Picchu, we made our way back to Cusco courtesy of some new Columbian friends. After spending one last night there, and getting to share a delicious meal with Shari and Rachel, we boarded an early tourist bus to the town of Puno, which is the main city on the Peru side of Lake Titicaca. The 8 hour bus trip was broken up by stops at small historic villages along the way featuring more inca ruins, churches, museums and a Peruvian lunch. We arrived on Puno that evening, settled into our hotel, grabbed dinner on town, witnessed a pre-easter parade and prepared for the overnight trip we would take the following day to the islands in the middle of Lake Titicaca.

From the port of Puno, we traveled by boat on to Lake Titicaca with a guide and small group. Our first stop in the Puno bay area was the Floating islands. These are islands made from the collection of plants grown up through the water and the inhabitants build homes and maintain the "land" of the island with additional plants for around two years when they need to relocate to a new island due to the deterioration of the plants. The way of life was beyond rural, literally like stepping hundreds of years back in time and was truly fascinating. 

arriving at floating islands

floating islands way of life

on the boat

 We continued our native peruvian tour and arrived a few hours later on one of the natural islands (not man made) named Amantani. Here we had a chance to take a small hike and witness the serene beauty of the island as well as get assigned our family we would eat and stay with for the night. 

the hillside of Amantani

happy hikers

Sabrina and I were assigned with Lucy, a 24 year-old mother who lives with her young daughter and her parents, her husband lives in Puno city where he workes to make money for the family as the only form of income om the island comes from agriculture or selling handicrafts. We enjoyed delicious vegetarian meals at her home, all cooked in clay pots over coals, attempted to speak a bit of Spanish to get to know them (the main language of the island people is Quechua, an indigineous Peruvian language) and even got dressed up in their traditional garb for a dance hall social. That night, huddled under blankets in the frigid non-heated bedroom and using the bucket flush toilet, I thought about all the luxuries we are all used to and how amazing it is that so many people live without or lead a life we associate with another century! It was an enjoyable and educational experience to spend some time witnessing the life the only life that Lucy and her family know. 

all dressed up

After breakfast with the family the next day, we departed Amantani for the island of Taguille, just another hour by boat, where we hikes and enjoyed another traditional Peruvian lunch (can`t get enough of quinoa soup) before heading back to Puno. 

The trip to Peru with Sabrina was filled with so many amazing sites and unreal adventures. I honestly enjoyed every bit of physical discomfort, or freezing cold in the high altitude, or another meal based on soup and potatoes...it was all worth it for the awesome experience we shared and I cant think of anyone I could have done the same with. Saying goodbye is hard especially when you are a solo traveler and meeting up with friends is such a thrill, but all good things come to an end so I said goodbye to Sabs as she headed back to NYC and I hopped an (overnight) plane to Rio to meet other friends from home who had journeyed to the southern hemisphere.

Chao!

IV to Inca Trail

Cusco

Following our brief stay in Lima, Sabrina and I departed for Cusco where we would spend a day and night before beginning the 4-day Inca trail trek to Machu Picchu. Cusco, Peru is at an altitude around 3,400 meters so it is recommended to spend a few days acclamating oneself to the high altitude in preparation for the challenging Inca trail trek. Unfortunately, with our timing, we weren't able to devote more than just about 24 hours. We checked into the Loki hostel, note: do not stay here if you are not interested in partying until 4 am with masses of Israeli travelers, maybe it wasn´t the best location for a 6:30 am pickup from the tour... Regardless, the staff was great and after settling in we set out to explore the city. 

Cusco has some beautiful sites like the ornate Plaza de Armas and winding streets with tucked in restaurants and shops, but it seems to be a city created souly for tourists with every street housing either hostels, restaurants, outdoor gear for trekking, or local artisan goods. We spent some time at the main artisan market gathering our fill of the infamous Peruvian sweaters and scarfs and walked the city. I definitely began to feel the altitude right in the beginning of the day, although at that point it was nothing more than tingly hands and feet and a slight dizzying feeling. 

loading up on Peruvian gear

After an orientation for our trek, we had an awesome dinner at Jacks and headed back to the hostel. It was at this point that I started to take a bit of a turn for the worse. My head started pounding and I had a slight stomach ache, but I naturally blamed it on being tired, acclamating to the climate and perhaps over-eating. We packed up most of our things for the next morning and tried to get some rest before the next four days ahead. After a few hours of tossing and turning, my health really started to go downhill. I`ll spare the specific details, and 
I´ve never had the flu, but I imagine that this is what it would feel like; vomiting, fever you name it, I was experiencing it. I honestly still didn't know if it was solely the altitude, if I had food poisoning or something worse....after 2 hours of being sick, I woke up Sabrina as it was only getting worse. We went to talk with the staff downstairs who confirmed it was likely altitude sickness and I would need to seek medical attention at a clinic. This was now around 4 am, our tour was picking us up at 6:30, things were going to have to turn around real fast.....Sabrina flew into mom mode as I was having trouble even walking at this point, we threw together the rest of our gear and headed to the clinic. Upon arrival I tried to ignore the conditions of the facility and just prayed I wouldn't get more sick by being treated there...The 24 hour staff spoke no English so I did my best to explain what was happening, they promptly put me in a bed, confirmed I had a fever, and stuck me with needles for an IV as I tried to explain I need the baby needles, luckily they were clean! About an hour in of being hydrated and receiving medicine through the IV, I was starting to feel a little better but still super weak. Sabrina headed back to the hostel to meet the guide and explain the situation and see what was possible in terms of adjusting our trek. Unfortunately she came back with less positive news. It was not possible to start the trek at a later day because our entrance to Machu Picchu was for a specific date thatis reserved with a permit months in advance. We could either forgo the trek and take the train up to Machu Picchu to meet the group in 4 days or we could take a little more time at the hospital and take a taxi about 2 hours away to the starting point of the trek where they would be in 4 hours. After discussing back and forth we decided it wasn't an option to miss the trek so I would rest for another 2 hours, do another round of the IV bag and we would try and go. 2 hours later I was feeling much better, my fever had broke and I was able to get up from the bed and walk. The doctor met with me and of course tried to tell me I shouldn't be leaving but I promised I would return if the conditioned worsened. After loading up on Gatorade and any pills the doctor would give us, we set out to rejoin the trek. A few hours later we finally made it  via taxi, our guide Jose was not so thrilled to see us as I imagine he didn't exactly want responsibility for someone whose health wasn't 100%. Nevertheless we rejioned the rest of the group which included a couple from New York, three women friends from Spain, and a mother-daughter team (Shari and Rachel) from Philly. As soon as we met Shari and Rachel it was a huge sigh of relief, right off the bat we could tell they were not only fun women to share the next 4 days with (how could I not love a vegan sporting all lululemon gear) but it was as if someone was like, ok here is a substitute Jewish mother for the next few days so don't worry you'll be okay...even after a quick second guess of myself after lunch based on how I was feeling, I knew I needed to at least try the first day and see how it went. Sabrina, the rockstar, graciously held my day pack, and Shari kept me company at a slow and steady base. 4 hours later we made it to camp, and although, I wont lie, it was definitely difficult and I wasn't feeling great, I felt really accomplished and just wanted to get some sleep in the hopes of feeling even more back to normal the next day. 

Post-hospital, rejoining the group and beginning the trek

surviving day 1 

Day 2 is known as the hardest day as it is about 5 hours straight of uphill trekking followed by 2 hours of downhill stone stairs and the highest altitude of the 4 days. Everyone knows I love a good physical challenge but between not feeling great and the altitude, day 2 really kicked my ass. Thank God I had Shari to share the challenge with and keep me positive and entertained the entire time. You definitely get to know people while hiking for hours in the middle of nothing but mountains! We constantly joked they should make all the world leaders do this together, could solve a lot of issues....

Our entire group and porters at camp

By day 3, I was feeling almost back to normal even after sleeping through a night of thunderstorms. The trek was a mix of up and down, but it was the longest day we had in total, taking us about 9 hours until we were settled at camp that night. The next morning we were woken at 3:30 am in order to get to the waiting point to let us in to the final hike to Machu Picchu, after 2 hours of sitting in cold rain we began the 1 hour climb to the Sungate, where you typically get the first glimpse of Machu Picchu. Unfortunately our view looked like this: 

Disappointment aside we continued the 2 hour hike down to Machu Picchu where it eventually cleared and we were able to witness this wonder of the world we had exerted so much energy to reach, it was pretty astounding! What´s interesting is that much of the history of the Incas is relatively unknown in comparison to other ancient cultures as they have no written language and few artificats were ever found beyond the ruins. However, just viewing the immense structure that is Machu Picchu is quite breathtaking and the fact that human beings created it almost solely by hand...unreal. I felt even more accomplished that I had overcome the physical challenge after having to seek medical attention just days before. I really couldn't have done it without the never ending support and concern of Sabrina and the daily reinforcement and new friendship of Shari and Rachel. Love you guys!
Following the tour we departed Machu Picchu for Aguascalientes, a small tourist town at the base where we took very hot showers and went to sleep very early in preparation for out next adventure beginning the following day!

The dream team: Rachel, Sabrina, me and Shari

For those thinking about the trek, here are some must haves I would recommend packing:

- Waterproof bags, ponchos, rain coat. Even in the dry season the mountains are a microclimate so its very common to have a range of weather and temperatures all in one day, layers are key! 

- Hiking socks and good hiking boots

- Power bars/gus for snacks and quick energy

- Wicking fabric clothing for under layers

- Toilet paper (no bathrooms have)

- Face wipes if you are in the habit of washing your face daily

- Headlamp

- Sandals to rest your feet at the camp

- Altitude pills!

we did it!

Lima: city of lights and so much possibility

Wow...I can´t believe it has been nearly 4 weeks since i´ve been able to sit down at a real computer for a few minutes and update my online travel journal, but such is the life of a nomadic traveler....Luckily for me, facebook has allowed a lot of quick, real time updates so those friends and family keeping up, hopefully you know I am alive and well! Currently, I´m in Brazil making my way to Bolivia for the weekend before departing to the Salt Flats from Uyuni. However, since so many amazing things have happened in the last few weeks, I´d like to go back to the beginning of my trip to Peru and start by recounting my time experienced in Lima.

Although Peru was once a country people thought of as extremely poor and unsafe, much has changed in the past few decades and Lima, as the largest city, is certainly no exception. Upon arrival, I was graciously offered a place to stay at a friend of a friend´s apartment in the Miraflores area, a very upscale coastal neighborhood where most of the best restaurants and shops are located. The following morning, Sabrina met me all the way from New York, for her vacation and we began our Peru adventure. During our only full day in Lima, we wanted to take advantage of both the beach weather and explore the city so we signed up for a morning bike tour with Bike Tours of Lima. Our guide expertly guided us along the 4-hour coastal tour where we were able to see a glimpse into the beachside neighborhoods of Miraflores (which felt a lot like La Jolla, CA believe it or not), Barranco and Chorillos.

along the coast in Miraflores, seriously just like La Jolla Cove...

Following the tour we chilled out with some Pisco sours beachside and took a siesta before venturing out in the night. That evening, we wanted to experience some of the amazing cuisine Lima supposedly has to offer, and I am serious that the food in Peru was some of the best I had experienced in SA so far. One of the more well known and best chefs in Peru, Gaston Acurio, has a very upscale (and pricey) restaurant that sounded amazing, but a bit out of budget, but lucky for us, he now also operates a cafe-style restaurant, Tanta, which is not as pricy as the original, but serves some of his Peruvian specialties. It was definitely a success, and after a filling meal, we headed back to the apartment to prepare for our very early departure to Cusco.

What I was struck most about Lima is how cosmopolitan it seems to be coming and how much growth potential it really has. The casino industry is taking off  in a big way there which gives some flash, and I´m sure economic growth, to the community. The upscale beach properties in Miraflores are raising real estate value tremendously. The historic area of downtown, as well as the old fishing neighborhood of Chorillos, still provide a glimpse into the Peruvian history, while the newer, more upscale neighborhoods are infusing the culture with modern fashion, real estate, art and food. Of course, there are still areas riddled with crime and poverty, but the economy and politics seem to be relatively stable. In my opinion I think it has the most potential of any city I have seen so far to be the next big thing....more next from Cusco and Machu Picchu!

one of the MANY casinos all around Lima