Backtracking: thoughts on Bolivia

So I realized I never wrote about my incredible 5 day experience in Bolivia towards the end of my South American journey. Truth is, it was a stop I hadn't planned on, yet turned out to be one of my favorite parts of the overall trip. I love when people or places surprise you in that way that your expectations are completely exceeded and that is certainly what happened on my Salar de Uyuni (Salt Flats of Uyuni) 3-day Jeep tour. During my earlier travels in South America I had met many backpackers who raved about the Salar de Uyuni, so I filed it as something I wanted to try and do if time permitted. When I realized after Brazil, I would have a couple of weeks before I needed to head back to Santiago, I thought that it seemed like the ideal time. My original plan was to come in from Sao Paolo to Santa Cruz (there is a non-stop flight on a budget airline offered daily) and then make my way to Sucre as I had read about it on travel sites and in books and thought it sounded like a perfect stop over. From Sucre I would bus it to Uyuni to begin the tour. Unfortunately, as I've learned now multiple times, traveling (especially by plane) rarely goes how you'd like or expect and when my flight was delayed an extra day from Brazil I found myself making choices about where I would stop over before Uyuni. What became the best option was to get to La Paz since I could do that from Santa Cruz on the same night, stay over in La Paz and then take an overnight bus the next night to Uyuni. I wasn't thrilled about this new plan because A. I was missing out on Sucre and B. I had not wanted to go to La Paz at all, especially by myself, as I have heard many friends experiencing safety issues while traveling there. Needless to say, things happen for a reason and I made a fellow traveler friend who had also been stranded in Brazil and was planning the same route so we bunked up in La Paz, took the bus the following night to Uyuni and joined up on the same jeep tour. The experience the next 3 days completely made up for the travel horrors and unplanned stop in La Paz. The company I chose to go with, Red Planet, was fantastic. Our guide was awesome, the drivers were sober (seriously this is an issue with others), the group had a great dynamic and the tour itself was incredible. I never knew that Bolivia was such a breathtakingly beautiful country. It was truly a special treat of salt flats, lagoons, mountains, deserts and hot springs. At the end of the 3 days, I crossed the border into Chile for my final few weeks in South America, definitely a trip I would recommend to others.

The group at the Salt Flats

Hot springs

Green Lagoon

Now, why did I start thinking about my time in Bolivia and decide to post months later. Well, I recently read a book called Marching Powder, by Rusty Young told in the words of Thomas McFadden, a convicted drug smuggler who was sentenced to 6 years time in San Pedro Prison in La Paz, Bolivia. Thomas' story was absolutely incredible and shed new light on what I already knew to be a corrupt society in Bolivia. San Pedro prison is like nothing you've ever heard of before. The prisoners essentially run and control the entire facility. New inmates must pay for a cell and it is not uncommon for families to live inside the prison with their inmate relative, insane right?! The story told in Marching Powder describes the unbelievable life in San Pedro filled with drugs, fear and knowing who to compensate inside. When Thomas was living in San Pedro, he began offering tours to visitors. No joke, it was even featured in Lonely Planet as "one of the world's most bizarre tourist attractions". Since he was freed apparently the tours aren't quite as legit/safe/legal so it is not as common these days. I couldn't help think of the incredible stories the backpackers who toured the prison and spent the night probably had...unlike anything you'd ever experience in a lifetime. I was very fascinated with Thomas' story and the whole idea of a place like this that exists and would highly suggest it for your future reading list, although I heard they are making a movie if you don't get to it….

Where I rest my head: Sur de America

As I prepare to depart South America after 3+ months, I can't help but feel bittersweet that the adventure is coming to an end. However, I am constantly reflecting on the amazing experiences, languages heard & learned, sights seen and friendships formed. Although, I've never been a complete homebody, one of the most challenging aspects of my trip has certainly been not having a home per say...but rather the clothes/things on my back (quite literally) and the excitement of finding home in the jungle, beach, mountains, desert, farm and city. It's also been some of the best parts of the trip as there has been such a variety of places I've stayed and the people, scenery and adventures at these places are what I will remember most and what has made each place feel like home if only for a few hours. Thus, a brief reflection on the final month of travel and "where I rest my head"....
note: some of the images are taken from the internet

Peru
Lima: Elio's apartment
Graciously, a friend of a friend let Sabrina and I crash at his place the night before we departed for Cusco. Located in the posh area of Miraflores, it was amazing to have our own apartment to call home for 24 hours.

Cusco: Loki Hostel, 2 nights before and after the Inca Trail Trek

Great staff, but more ideal for the traveler who wants to party until all hours of the night! The restaurant and bar on site and volunteer opportunities in the community are definitely highlights.

Inca Trail: Tent

 

Sleeping bags and camping tents were our home for 3 nights along the Inca Trail. Not ideal during a thunderstorm, but certainly an adventure!




Aguascalientes: Hotel Presidente
This simple hotel proved to be heaven after our 4-day Machu Picchu trek. Hot showers and a full breakfast were a plus!

  

Puno: Camino Real Hotel

Another simple hotel booked through our tour company, this was conveniently located to the main pedestrian street of Puno where the shops and restaurants were concentrated.










Amantani: Lucy's house
On the island of Amantani in the middle of Lake Titicaca, Sabrina and I huddled for warmth under massive blankets in the spare bedroom of our host, Lucy. A true Peru experience.

Brazil
Rio de Janeiro: Atlantis Copacabana Hotel
In Rio, I stayed with Erika and Ashley at this centrally located hotel steps from the beach and on the border of Ipanema and Copacabana. Although the staff wasn't the most helpful, the hotel was more than adequate and a treat for me, the backpacker!

Sao Paulo: I camped out for the night in my friend Paul's amazing apartment in the Campo Bello neighborhood. Such a treat and awesome to have a local host for the weekend. Too bad I didn't get any pictures!

Manaus: Gol Backpackers

This quaint hostel was an ideal location just outside the main square of Manaus and perfect spot for getting some rest before my tour in the Amazon.






Amazon: For two nights, I slept in one of the huts on the lodge property. My favorite part was the oversize hammock in the back, perfect for a siesta!

On the last night in the jungle, we camped outside in hammocks hung across a shelter, a little scary, but totally worth it.













Bolivia
La Paz: Hostal Estrella Andina

This was probably one of my favorite parts of my 24 hours in La Paz. Although I wasn't a huge fan of the city, this hostal was perfection. My new friend Tonya and I had an amazing private room and bathroom with the most comfortable beds I've experienced on the road.









Overnight bus to Uyuni

Following a packed 24 hours in La Paz, we boarded our 10-hour Todo Turismo bus for Uyuni to begin the Salar de Uyuni tour the following day. The bus company is new in Bolivia and is in answer to the terrible bus conditions that once existed, it's comparable to other coach bus companies in South America and was completely comfortable for the overnight ride....driving through death road on the other hand, not quite as comfortable...



Salar de Uyuni 3-day tour: Many people complain about the shelter conditions during the 3-day, 2-night tour of the Salar de Uyuni, but I found our company, Red Planet, to provide us with totally adequate accomodations, in fact more than comfortable.

Night 1

Night 2

Chile
San Pedro de Atacama: Backpackers Hostel
The Backpackers hostel just outside San Pedro's main town square was super chill and a great atmosphere for our 2 nights we stayed. Complete with a fire pit and hammocks for relaxing, the only downside was the cold showers and lack of water late at night.

Overnight bus to La Serena: we treated ourselves to Cama for the 16 hour ride, sooo comfortable!

La Serena: Hostal El Arbol
One of my favorite places of the whole trip. We only found and booked it the night before and it turned out to be a fabulous little B&B run by the nicest Chilean mother and her daughters. All the travelers were super nice and the rooms and beds were really comfortable, we contemplated staying longer as many of the others had...

Overnight bus to Santiago: Since the ride was only 6-7 hours, we took semi-cama (aka not a full recline seat) so it wasn't quite as comfortable, but totally doable for the quick overnight trip

Catemu: Eka Chakra Farm

During my stay at the Hare Krishna farm, Eka Chakra I was put up in a super comfortable room in one of the guest huts. Aside from the near freezing temperatures at night, it was super comfortable and very tranquilo

Santiago: Hostal Luna Calypso
For our first night back in Santiago, we stayed at this quaint hostal with a super-friendly staff. Located in the Providencia neighborhood, it was a great location to get situated for the weekend adventure with my friend Melanie.

Following our night in the hostel, we moved in to a friend's apartment in the Vitacura neighborhood for the weekend. The view from Andres' balcony was breathtaking and it was so nice to have an awesome local host in the city.

views of the city from Vitacura

For my final week in Santiago, I was taking additional classes at Ecela, so I moved back in with my host family that I had stayed with in February. It was nice to be back to a place I felt like I knew and spend my final days in a home. I am also pleased to announce that I had my first dream in "Spanglish" here during this week, certainly a monumental occasion to end the journey!