Patagonia in 12 Days

I'm not usually one to recommend rushing through travel. I am so grateful for the gift of time in the past year to savor and experience all the wonderful places I've been able to see. However, after realizing I needed to get back to Santiago rather quickly to get started on various work projects, I had to plan a pretty strict itinerary in order to see the parts of Patagonia on my list. I thought that my itinerary might be helpful to share with others as well as it would certainly fit well into a 2-week vacation taken from the states. Patagonia is such a vast area comprising the southern area of both Argentina and Chile, there are so many beautiful places to see and things to do. The best time to visit is December-February as it is summer, and don't let the icebergs fool you, it really does feel like summer! You can start on either the Chile side or Argentina side, but since I was coming from Buenos Aires, I started on the Argentina side first and flew to Ushuaia, Argentina for my first stop.

Ushuaia

Ushuaia, known as the southernmost city in the world, is situated on a bay bordered by a mountain range to the north and the Beagle channel to the south. It is also where you can take a boat trip to Antarctica, but this is extremely costly and takes no less than 9 days (another trip!). Once I arrived, I opted to take a boat trip along the Beagle Channel where you stop at various smaller islands to see some of the indigenous animals and take in a spectacular view of the famous lighthouse (although this is actually not the most southern lighthouse I was informed). The following day, I took a bus to the national park where I was fortunate to meet two very nice Irish girls also traveling who I hiked with for the day and then later realized we were staying at the same hostel in the next town the following night. From Ushuaia, I took a morning flight to El Calafate, Argentina.

At the end of the world

El Calafate is a wonderfully quaint town with spectacular landscape. I really loved the hostel I stayed at here and found everyone to be very friendly, we even had an asado the first night I was there which was a great opportunity to meet fellow travelers, drink lots of Malbec and practice some Spanish. One of the most popular tourist sites to see is the Perito Moreno Glacier, one of the only growing glaciers in Patagonia. It is also known for its spectacular ruptures caused by the pressure of the ice that creates small water dams in the lake and causing the ice to break off in grand, loud displays. It was a spectacular site and everyone cheered each time we witnessed an intense rupture. I did sign up to do a day tour of the glacier which included a guided mini trekking on the ice. I don't always love touristy attractions, but this was one not to be missed. The shear size of the glacier is really astounding.

Ice trekking on Perito Moreno Glacier

The next morning I took a bus to El Chalten (about 3 hours away). El Chalten is a small mountain village at the base of the Torre mountain, and its more famous neighbor, the Fitz Roy mountain. A small village indeed, there is basically two streets of quaint restaurants, hostels and lodges and the paths to both mountains start right from the town. The first day I hiked the Fitz Roy path, about 8 hours roundtrip, with a new friend I had met in Calafate. On the second day, I ventured out myself on one of the other shorter paths, and pretty exhausted, jumped back on a bus returning to El Calafate for the night.

View of Fitz Roy from the hiking trail

The following morning, I boarded a bus to Puerto Natales, Chile (about 5-6 hours) a small city in Patagonia Chile which is the primary tourist stop for those venturing into Torres del Paine National Park. I checked into a hostel and then hurried around town to rent camping equipment and purchase my food for the upcoming 5-day, 4-night trek I planned to take in Torres del Paine, known as the W trek. I was both excited and nervous for the trip as I figured it would be challenging (and certainly something I had never done before) and also I was a bit apprehensive to embark alone. Luckily for me, groups of travelers start the trek each day so it is quite easy to meet people that will take the same path as you for the duration of the hike. I was even more fortunate that I found some new friends I had met in El Calafate, the nicest couple from England, who offered to let me join up with them. We ended up having a great time, albeit extremely challenging. I really don't think I've done anything harder in my life to date. I think carrying everything on my back was really the hardest part, especially since we walked sometimes 25+ kilometers in one day! Even with the pain and exhaustion, it ended up being an experience I am so glad I took. The landscape is breathtaking and the adventure of the trip itself was a blast. Needless to say, I have never enjoyed a shower and warm bed as much as the night I returned back to Puerto Natales.

Torres del Paine

Camping for 1

unreal scenery

The next afternoon I hopped on a Sky Airlines (the best to use while traveling in Chile and surrounding) back to Santiago where I am now getting settled and putting together the pieces of my "living abroad life." I am excited to share what more is in store in the months ahead...

Sunrise the final day at Torres del Paine