Namaste Series: deepening Ashtanga practice in Thailand

During my practice of yoga in the last 6 years or so, I have found teachers I have been drawn to and types of classes that suit me best. Personally, I like a challenge, so getting sweaty and utilizing the class as a workout is definitely a plus. On the other hand, one of the reasons I grew to love yoga is because of its inherent relaxation properties and meditation work. The ideal for me is to find a challenging, invigorating class with an energetic and helpful teacher. Ashtanga yoga, in simple terms is a set series of yoga popularized by K. Pattabhi Jois and directly responsible for the western craze of "power yoga." Typically, the class is 90 minutes to 2 hours and quite challenging involving a majority of vinyasa flow and deep asanas. I had never specifically practiced at an ashtanga class, however, many of the studios I have attended over the years adopt a modified version and I was always interested in learning about this style in greater detail. When I came to Chiang Mai, and met up with some old friends from home, they could not stop talking about this intense ashtanga class at a nearby studio, Wild Rose, with a kick-ass instructor.  I was totally sold and had to check it out. The 2+ hour session certainly did not disappoint. The instructor, Vari (a former New Yorker), had both the skills to teach for all levels as well as the positive energy and words to motivate all the students. His class was a modified version of the exact Ashtanga series from India, however, I definitely noticed differences from previous classes and was very happy to take on a new challenge. One of my favorite parts of Chiang Mai is the laid-back, community atmosphere and Wild Rose Yoga certainly fits right into this. Following the intense class, everyone was on a serious high and hung around together for fresh juices at the restaurant next door. An ideal afternoon if I've ever experienced one. I can certainly see how one might come to Chiang Mai and stay for awhile….Namaste.

Siesta in the Sand on Ko Phi Phi

If it weren't for the breathtaking views of the beach, islands and Andaman Sea, our trip down south in Thailand might have been ruined thanks to the horrific experience of Phuket. Most of my friends who had been through Phuket in the past warned me about the tourist trap that is this dirty city, so in the hopes to avoid this, I booked our one night we had in transit at a Lonely Planet-recommended "resort" just a bit farther away from the center of activity on Kamala beach.  To make a long story short we showed up at 1am to a roach motel run by an incompetent non-english speaking staff….needless to say we made it through the night and 12 hours later were on the ferry as fast as we could to Ko Phi Phi.

Luckily, arriving at the beautiful island didn't disappoint. Ko Phi Phi is made up of two islands, Ko Phi Phi Don (which is the part that is inhabited) and Ko Phi Phi Leh (most famously known for where the movie "The Beach" was shot). If I had one complaint of the Island, it might be that it is a bit overly touristy. Before the tsunami hit, the Island was getting so built up that the government imposed restrictions once everything was destroyed in 2004 so that it wouldn't get so built up again. Unfortunately, business owners thought otherwise and it is essentially what it was like pre-tsunami…. Alas, there are still some beautiful areas a bit removed from the town that retain a paradise vibe.
For our first night we had pre-booked a bungalow a bit farther away from the town called Viking Nature Resort, near Long Beach. It was such a cool eco-resort and the private tree house bungalows were perfection. However, we decided we wanted to be a little closer to the action so, after our first night and a picture-perfect day at the beach, we packed up and rented a budget bungalow in the town center for the next two nights.

our tree house at Viking

Phi Phi Leh

Our 4 Island days were filled with lounging in the sand, a snorkel/island boat trip, more delicious thai  fresh seafood and even yoga on the beach. It was the perfect way to unwind, enjoy the beauty of the island and culminate our Thailand trip before departing for the next adventure in Vietnam...

Chilled out in Chiang Mai

Although Bangkok was a thrilling start, it was quite a busy and hectic metropolitan city so arriving in the quieter, more subdued Northern city of Chiang Mai was a welcoming experience.  In our loosely mapped out itinerary we decided Chiang Mai would be one of our favorite places and there were many things we wanted to do in and around the city so we planned to spend about 5 days here and let me tell you, I could have stayed months! Between the friendliness of the people, the ease to get around the old city, the affordable and delicious street food, the endless options of outdoor activities and the overall laid back vibe I could see how some of my friends have called this city home for months on end.

Accommodations in Chiang Mai are quite affordable and conveniently located in and outside of the old city walls. Our guest house, Sri Pat, was not as social as some of the other more hostel-oriented houses, but was a great location inside the old city and the owner was an elderly lady who was eager to show us letters from her friend in Chicago once she learned where we were from, it was very sweet. We spent our first day doing a lot of walking in the old city exploring the streets and getting our bearings. We were especially stoked for fresh fruit and veggie juices on nearly every corner!  Later we decided to treat ourselves to our first Thai massage ($5 us dollars for one hour!). I had never experienced traditional Thai massage and absolutely loved it, it was quite painful, but in a good way. We compared it to a human foam roll (for athletes out there who know what I’m talking about) combined with someone almost doing yoga stretching for your body, amazing! That night we met up with a friend of mine, Lindsey, from high school who I haven’t been in touch with in years that just happened to also be traveling through Chiang Mai at the same time…ah the power of facebook! It was a blast and such a treat to reconnect with old friends on the other side of the world.

juice!

a fun reunion

The following day we set out on what has to be one of my favorite experiences from the entire trip; an elephant park. Baanchang Elephant Park is a lush 250 acres about 45 minutes outside of Chiang Mai in the hills. The owner started the park in 2004 to rescue elephants that were being mistreated and exploited in Thailand. Currently, there are 21 elephants at the park. Tourists can visit the park and spend the day learning about how the Mahouts (trainers/caretakers) communicate with and care for the animals, feed and bathe the elephants and enjoy a leisurely ride up through the jungle. Although seemingly gentle, elephants are actually quite aggressive animals and it was fascinating to learn about communicating with them. The elephant that Kelsey and I rode and bathed, Nomi, was so beautiful and sweet we didn’t want the day to end…plus how sweeeet are those outfits??

bath time

The following day we went with our guide from the Elephant park on a trek through the jungle up to a beautiful waterfall where we had a chance to spend some time relaxing and swimming followed by rafting. We returned to Chiang Mai later that evening and braved our way through the super-touristy night market where we picked up more than our fare share of gorgeous textiles and souvenirs and tasty $1 pad thai.

The following day, we signed up for a half day cooking class with Siam Rice Thai Cookery school. The morning consisted of visiting one of the largest local markets to shop for ingredients, followed by step by step instructions on cooking a soup, noodle dish and curry. We even pounded our own curry paste! As someone who enjoys cooking and learning about new foods and flavors, I loved every minute and it is true, it always tastes better when you make it yourself. We couldn’t even finish our last curry dish after enjoying soup and noodles, but luckily as part of the day you receive a cookbook with all of the recipes so I’m eager to cook up some delicious Thai dishes. Although, I have a feeling it might not be quite as easy without the expert guidance and personal wok stations….

thai basil

making our own curry paste

delicious

Following cooking school, we visited the Doi Suthep temple on top of the mountain just outside the city. Even though the weather wasn’t exactly cooperative, it was still a beautiful visit and the view of the city from the top is quite breathtaking.

view of Chiang Mai

On our last full day in Chiang Mai we finally had some time to practice yoga and we were excited to join the 2-hour Ashtanga class at Wild Rose Yoga that my friend Lindsey and her friend Margot had been attending all week. (More details on the class in a following post). Following yoga and another delicious meal, we packed up our bags and headed to the airport where we would be leaving Chiang Mai, certainly bittersweet, to head south to the Andaman coast for an overnight in Phuket followed by beach time on Ko Phi Phi.

One Day in Bangkok

Sa-wa-dee-kaa! I’ve just come home from an exhilarating three week trip to Thailand and Vietnam with my sister, Kelsey, and I can only say that Southeast Asia is truly a remarkable and very special place that I would very much like to continue to explore.  Our trip began in Thailand….

After a slight travel delay, forcing us to spend a night in Narita, Japan just outside the Tokyo airport, we were more than too happy to finally arrive in Bangkok, Thailand for a brief stop (just about 36 hours) to explore this wild city.

On our first of two nights we set out to one of the night markets after grabbing one of many excellent meals. The food in Thailand was certainly a highlight (more to come on that) as it was delicious and cheap!  I also learned that I have an appreciation for rather spicy foods, especially the flavorful Thai curries and soups. As I mentioned to Kelsey during one meal, “I don’t think I can consider it a positive Thai meal if my mouth isn’t on fire…” After gathering a few souvenirs and receiving plenty of invitations to attend a “ping pong show” we headed back to our hotel so we could wake early for our only full day in the city.

Our jam-packed morning included a self-guided walking tour of the major tourist and Buddhist destinations in Bangkok, including the Grand Palace and Wat Phra Kaew, Wat Pho and Wat Arun before we took a break for lunch. (Side note: Wat means Temple).  We stood in wonder at the Grand Palace and neighboring Wat where the intricate décor of each building, temple and statue is an ornate work of art, we were amazed at the 46m long reclining solid gold Buddha and we huffed and puffed up the steepest stairs I have ever climbed for a breathtaking view of the entire city. Visiting the temples, viewing the most beautiful religious statues and watching people bowing their heads deep in prayer was a very spiritual experience and the perfect start to a trip in such a special country.

Grand Palace

Reclining Buddha

 

steps up to Wat Arun

typical...

If one were just to experience the crazy night market surrounded by nude bars or only to experience the majestic beauty of the holy Buddhist temples, you would think you were in two completely different cities. The dichotomy of a rich history and sacred religious sites against a modern, bustling, sex-infused chaos is what makes Bangkok such an interesting and inviting city. We collapsed after  an afternoon at the Chatuchak weekend market (a must if you are in Bangkok over a weekend) and prepared for our trip the following morning to the northern Thai city, Chiang Mai. 

Dealing with culture shock: the 4 D's

Since I've arrived back on U.S. soil after 3+ months traveling in some of the most spectacular places on Earth, there has certainly been some moments of culture shock/adjustment. Luckily, being without a job and living back in my family home has helped me not sync back into old routines, but I can't say it hasn't been a difficult time. As I've loaded pictures on my computer and responded to friends and family via email and phone it has given me opportunities to reflect on the amazing adventure I just came from and how lucky I am to experienced it all. The past week has also provided some excellent opportunities to deal with said "culture shock" mainly by putting my mind and energy into other activities, thus I present my 4 D's of dealing:

Detox: When I arrived back from my trip and realized how simple life could be living out of a backpack, and how so many people in the world live with so little, I was pretty disgusted at the amount of stuff I had collected in my life for the past decade. Years of working in retail with massive discounts as well as a life of sample sales and perks in New York had led to boxes of unnecessary clothing, shoes, bags…you name it. It was pretty overwhelming and made me feel quite bad about myself. With the help of my mom and sister, we cleaned out boxes from New York as well as my closet and room from Chicago and had ourselves a busy weekend of an insane garage sale. That, on top of selling some of my finer designer pieces to a local consignment store in town, provided not only a nice supplemental income for the next month, but an overwhelming feeling of detoxification and relief.

Selling items at Crossroads

the massive garage sale

Decompress: I knew after coming back from a whirlwind trip, I would need to take some time to just chill out both by myself and with family and friends. So, in the midst of the garage sale/cleaning out madness, I found some time for yoga at a local studio that my mom has started practicing at. It felt so nice to experience more vinyasa-style yoga (in English) and practice with new teachers who I very much enjoyed. Taking some time alone on the mat also provided some great introspective reflection on the trip and some ideas and thoughts I have about the future moving forward.  As I've mentioned before, one of my favorite parts of my travels has been the people I've met and the new friendships I've formed, but I have to say I feel like a very lucky girl for the close friendships I've kept over my entire childhood and adolescence and how lucky I am that so many of my close friends live in Chicago and were eager to catch up with me and hear about the trip. A night out with some of my closest girlfriends proved to be just what I needed to feel grounded back at home.

catching up with great friends

Dyeing my hair: ok, this is really just for fun since it's summer in the states and I don't have a professional job to report into, but I decided to do something fun with my hair, just for a bit of a change….

Departing once again: and although South America was a large portion of my 6-month adventure, it's not the only part. My sister and I are currently in the midst of packing up for our 3-week trip to Thailand and Vietnam. I know I am in for a HUGE culture shock on the other side of the world, but I couldn't be more excited and open to the next great adventure….More to come from travels in Southeast Asia! xo

Where I rest my head: Sur de America

As I prepare to depart South America after 3+ months, I can't help but feel bittersweet that the adventure is coming to an end. However, I am constantly reflecting on the amazing experiences, languages heard & learned, sights seen and friendships formed. Although, I've never been a complete homebody, one of the most challenging aspects of my trip has certainly been not having a home per say...but rather the clothes/things on my back (quite literally) and the excitement of finding home in the jungle, beach, mountains, desert, farm and city. It's also been some of the best parts of the trip as there has been such a variety of places I've stayed and the people, scenery and adventures at these places are what I will remember most and what has made each place feel like home if only for a few hours. Thus, a brief reflection on the final month of travel and "where I rest my head"....
note: some of the images are taken from the internet

Peru
Lima: Elio's apartment
Graciously, a friend of a friend let Sabrina and I crash at his place the night before we departed for Cusco. Located in the posh area of Miraflores, it was amazing to have our own apartment to call home for 24 hours.

Cusco: Loki Hostel, 2 nights before and after the Inca Trail Trek

Great staff, but more ideal for the traveler who wants to party until all hours of the night! The restaurant and bar on site and volunteer opportunities in the community are definitely highlights.

Inca Trail: Tent

 

Sleeping bags and camping tents were our home for 3 nights along the Inca Trail. Not ideal during a thunderstorm, but certainly an adventure!




Aguascalientes: Hotel Presidente
This simple hotel proved to be heaven after our 4-day Machu Picchu trek. Hot showers and a full breakfast were a plus!

  

Puno: Camino Real Hotel

Another simple hotel booked through our tour company, this was conveniently located to the main pedestrian street of Puno where the shops and restaurants were concentrated.










Amantani: Lucy's house
On the island of Amantani in the middle of Lake Titicaca, Sabrina and I huddled for warmth under massive blankets in the spare bedroom of our host, Lucy. A true Peru experience.

Brazil
Rio de Janeiro: Atlantis Copacabana Hotel
In Rio, I stayed with Erika and Ashley at this centrally located hotel steps from the beach and on the border of Ipanema and Copacabana. Although the staff wasn't the most helpful, the hotel was more than adequate and a treat for me, the backpacker!

Sao Paulo: I camped out for the night in my friend Paul's amazing apartment in the Campo Bello neighborhood. Such a treat and awesome to have a local host for the weekend. Too bad I didn't get any pictures!

Manaus: Gol Backpackers

This quaint hostel was an ideal location just outside the main square of Manaus and perfect spot for getting some rest before my tour in the Amazon.






Amazon: For two nights, I slept in one of the huts on the lodge property. My favorite part was the oversize hammock in the back, perfect for a siesta!

On the last night in the jungle, we camped outside in hammocks hung across a shelter, a little scary, but totally worth it.













Bolivia
La Paz: Hostal Estrella Andina

This was probably one of my favorite parts of my 24 hours in La Paz. Although I wasn't a huge fan of the city, this hostal was perfection. My new friend Tonya and I had an amazing private room and bathroom with the most comfortable beds I've experienced on the road.









Overnight bus to Uyuni

Following a packed 24 hours in La Paz, we boarded our 10-hour Todo Turismo bus for Uyuni to begin the Salar de Uyuni tour the following day. The bus company is new in Bolivia and is in answer to the terrible bus conditions that once existed, it's comparable to other coach bus companies in South America and was completely comfortable for the overnight ride....driving through death road on the other hand, not quite as comfortable...



Salar de Uyuni 3-day tour: Many people complain about the shelter conditions during the 3-day, 2-night tour of the Salar de Uyuni, but I found our company, Red Planet, to provide us with totally adequate accomodations, in fact more than comfortable.

Night 1

Night 2

Chile
San Pedro de Atacama: Backpackers Hostel
The Backpackers hostel just outside San Pedro's main town square was super chill and a great atmosphere for our 2 nights we stayed. Complete with a fire pit and hammocks for relaxing, the only downside was the cold showers and lack of water late at night.

Overnight bus to La Serena: we treated ourselves to Cama for the 16 hour ride, sooo comfortable!

La Serena: Hostal El Arbol
One of my favorite places of the whole trip. We only found and booked it the night before and it turned out to be a fabulous little B&B run by the nicest Chilean mother and her daughters. All the travelers were super nice and the rooms and beds were really comfortable, we contemplated staying longer as many of the others had...

Overnight bus to Santiago: Since the ride was only 6-7 hours, we took semi-cama (aka not a full recline seat) so it wasn't quite as comfortable, but totally doable for the quick overnight trip

Catemu: Eka Chakra Farm

During my stay at the Hare Krishna farm, Eka Chakra I was put up in a super comfortable room in one of the guest huts. Aside from the near freezing temperatures at night, it was super comfortable and very tranquilo

Santiago: Hostal Luna Calypso
For our first night back in Santiago, we stayed at this quaint hostal with a super-friendly staff. Located in the Providencia neighborhood, it was a great location to get situated for the weekend adventure with my friend Melanie.

Following our night in the hostel, we moved in to a friend's apartment in the Vitacura neighborhood for the weekend. The view from Andres' balcony was breathtaking and it was so nice to have an awesome local host in the city.

views of the city from Vitacura

For my final week in Santiago, I was taking additional classes at Ecela, so I moved back in with my host family that I had stayed with in February. It was nice to be back to a place I felt like I knew and spend my final days in a home. I am also pleased to announce that I had my first dream in "Spanglish" here during this week, certainly a monumental occasion to end the journey!